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Sunday, January 17, 2021

Splendid Pasta | Columns - Country Messenger

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I have been craving pasta.

To most people that may not be weird, but I’ve never liked pasta. Until recently, I never thought about why I didn’t like pasta. I thought pasta was bland, boring, sticky, and gummy.

Most people, including me, do not know how to “cook with” or which kinds are the best to buy for what recipe. 

My mother loved pasta, even the bad stuff. During the winter she made lasagna or rigatoni weekly. Of course, I acted like I was going to die if she made me eat it. I begged her to make anything else. I even asked for salad which was a close second to my pasta disdain. 

Over the years, I avoided all things pasta. I only learned to master angel hair pasta. I stayed away from any large pasta shape or a hot dish that called for pasta.

In 2008, the long-running Splendid Table radio program released a cookbook called How To Eat Supper and my “pasta” world changed. The authors describe cooking techniques in a way that I understood. 

The book is amazing. It doesn’t have many photos, but it’s filled with excellent instructions—especially for pasta.

This recipe is an adaptation of a recipe from that book. I love the idea of tossing the pasta with fresh grated Parmigiano-Reggiano before you top it with any sauce. It’s a game-changer. 

Follow the pasta buying and cooking directions carefully and you’ll be making pasta that rivals what Italian chefs can do. 

Chopped Green Pesto and Pasta

1 bunch basil, about ½ cup, packed

2 cloves garlic

½ tsp salt

1 tsp red pepper flakes (optional)

1 Tbsp. Lemon juice, plus a little zest 

1/3 cup salted Pistachios

½ cup coarsely grated Parmigiano-Reggiano, divided

3 Tbsp. olive oil

3 Tbsp. shallots, minced

1 pound box imported Italian linguini pasta noodles*

2 Tbsp. kosher salt

*Buy the best pasta you can afford. I have found Italian pasta is firmer when cooked—even if you accidentally overcook them slightly. If you buy a cheap brand, look at the instructions, if it says to rinse the pasta after cooking, the noodles will be soggy.

Before you start cooking, have all of your ingredients prepared and ready to cook. 

In a large pot, bring 6 quarts of water to a boil.

While the water is coming to a boil, on a large cutting board, with a sharp knife, chop the garlic into a few pieces. Add the salt; chop the garlic until it’s very finely chopped, and the salt is mixed in. Add two of the shallots, basil, lemon juice, and zest; chop until everything is finely chopped. Add 2 Tbsp. of the oil directly to the chopped ingredients. Add the pistachios and ¼ cup of the cheese. Chop until the nuts are coarsely chopped. Set aside until the pasta is done cooking. 

Add the 2 Tbsp. of salt to the boiling water. Add the pasta and cook for 10-11 minutes or until the pasta is tender but firm (al dente). Drain and reserve 1 cup of the hot pasta cooking water. Set the pasta aside and in the empty cooking pot add the rest of the oil and shallot over medium heat for 3 minutes. Add ½ cup of the pasta cooking water to the pot. Add the pasta and toss to coat. Add the rest of the cheese and toss to coat. Add the pesto; toss to distribute. Add more pasta water if needed. Serve immediately. 

Lisa Erickson is a food columnist who loves adventure and food. You can find more recipes by emailing her at wildchowrecipes@gmail.com.

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January 18, 2021 at 12:10AM
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Splendid Pasta | Columns - Country Messenger

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