A thick porcelain plate, oversized cutlery, two-on-two beef pies turned upside-down, and mashed potato. On top, your pick of liquor: a green parsley sauce, or a controversial ladle of gravy. If thirsty, an R White’s lemonade or milky tea. For the most part since the 19th century, this is what fast-food looked like in London.
The pie and mash shop sustained the city through some of its darkest times, not least the industrial revolution and The Blitz. But in recent decades it has struggled in the face of London’s faddish, outward-looking dining scene. These humble family-run businesses – traditional, proudly unrefined, resolute in serving delicious homemade food – seem forgotten. A fact no more evident than when F. Cooke on Broadway Market closed after 120 years.
But in 2021, the pie and mash shop is having a moment. Many are forced to embrace delivery apps in confinement, and some now offer a UK-wide delivery of build-your-own kits for homesick cockneys. More people have been opening up to the simple magic of the pie shop. Is it becoming… trendy?
Those of us who grew up around these green-tiled saloons have long recognised what makes them special. Pie and mash is a family affair, as much about the people as the food. Over the centuries, each has developed their own small twist: a secret ingredient in the liquor, a pastry-rolling technique, or a homemade chilli vinegar. And many Londoners have a lot of fervently held opinions on which shop makes the best.
To help you decide, here is GQ’s list of London’s favourite pie and mash shops.
F Cooke, Hoxton
There’s been a Cooke’s shop in London since 1862; but the oldest, and most famous, recently shut. Nestled in the heart of gentrifying Broadway Market, it was never going to be easy, but F. Cooke’s most loyal customers have always preferred this lowkey Hoxton shop. There’s a cockney-chic Sixties decor here, which feels less antiquated. Fresh jellied eels are a highlight at F. Cooke’s. If you’re curious, this would be the choice place to try them. The pies are famously made from scratch (meat is even butchered on site) and are prepared to the same 19th century recipe. Just don’t ask for gravy. (Takeaway, UK-wide delivery.)
150 Hoxton St, London N1 6SH. f-cooke-hoxton.business.site
M Manze, Bermondsey
The Tower Bridge Manze’s is now London’s oldest surviving pie and mash shop. Sold by Robert Cooke to his son-in-law (and protege) Italian-born Michele Manze in 1902, Michele quickly became South London’s answer to the Cooke dynasty. The Manze liquor has a distinct flavour, owing to a secret family-kept recipe, and pies are baked fresh on the premises daily, cooked in traditional stone ovens. Under his granddaughter Emma, Michele’s shop remains the benchmark – although there are independent outposts run by other family members (Luigi Manze’s Walthamstow shop is worth a mention). Rio Ferdinand and David Beckham are even known to pop in from time to time. (Takeaway, UK-wide delivery.)
87 Tower Bridge Rd, Bermondsey, London SE1 4TW. manze.co.uk
Arments
Serving the community since 1914, locals recently voted to award Arments its own blue plaque. As well as colourful long-time residents and cab drivers – always a good sign – it’s slowly attracting a trendy new crowd, too. The meat here is coarser and less minced than some other pie and mash shops, meaning the beef’s flavour isn’t lost in the liquor. And they offer a vegetarian option as well as their popular seasonal fruit pies, including a special minced pie for Christmas. Everyone is made to feel welcome at Arments. And if you really like it, you can book the shop for your wedding reception. (Takeaway, UK-wide delivery.)
7 Westmoreland Rd, Walworth, London SE17 2AX. armentspieandmash.com
Harrington’s, Tooting
Stepping into Harrington’s is like entering an intimate Martin Parr photo series. The shop was opened back in 1908 by Bertie Harrington, and is now run by his great-granddaughter Beverley who continues the tradition of nourishing, affordable meals for local families. No pomp. No frills. Few extras. Just delicious homemade pies, stewed or jellied eels, and liquor (which you can uniquely buy in jug size). Prices begin at £2, and unlike in the fast-changing East End, there are still long queues down Selkirk Road every Saturday. For home-sick Londoners, they also do a UK-wide delivery. (Takeaway, UK-wide delivery.)
Broadway Solicitors, 3 Selkirk Rd, Tooting, London SW17 0ER. ukpieandmashdelivery.co.uk
Cockney’s Pie and Mash, Notting Hill
This Portobello Road shop remains an authentic home-from-home for West Londoners who grew up on Cockney’s bowls of large puffy pies and thick liquor. The pastry is slightly burned here, which some consider to be more flavoursome. It’s one of the cheapest meals you can find in the area, and also one of the heartiest – perfect before a leisurely stroll through the market. (Takeaway only.)
314 Portobello Rd, London W10 5RU
A.J. Goddard
One of the great pie standoffs took place on Deptford High Street between the Manze and Goddard families. Sadly, the original A.J Goddard shop closed in 2018 (Manze’s of Deptford hangs on). So, it was a relief when the family announced they would be relocating to nearby Welling, taking with them their flaky, crisp pastry – arguably one of the City’s best, and the knuckle-sized mashed potato servings. There’s also a top drawer roly-poly for afters. The century-long A.J Goddard story continues.
15 Welling High Street, Welling, DA16 1TR
Goddard’s at Greenwich
Goddard’s at Greenwich was once an outpost of A.J Goddard in Deptford, but now operates independently under another of the family line. It reopened a few years ago beside Greenwich Market. Some of the fun is watching tourists arriving to tick-off their to-do-list, rubbing shoulders with locals and students on the large wooden tables. Goddard’s has one of the larger menus on this list, including a lamb and rosemary pie, chicken and ham, and chilli minced beef pie – as well as a selection of classic English desserts. You can even order your pie, mash, and liquor gluten-free. (Takeaway & local delivery.)
22 King William Walk, Greenwich Peninsula, London SE10 9HU. goddardsatgreenwich.co.uk
G Kelly on the Roman Road
This Roman Road icon finally returned in 2020, under the wing of Neil Vening. The shop was sold to Neil’s grandfather by his brother-in-law George Kelly, and has been in his family for generations. Vening has revamped the infrastructure (there’s a new bakehouse and hip exterior), and restored the tiled walls and mirrors inside. It feels fitting for the East End of today, but without compromising G Kelly’s tradition. The pies here are cooked on demand by Neil and his team, made using fresh, quality meat with minimal use of machinery. They even sell uber-trendy Climpson coffee. A pie and mash shop that reflects the times, while holding on to what made it so special in the first place. (Takeaway & local delivery.)
526 Roman Rd, Old Ford, London E3 5ES. gkelly.london
BJ’s Pie and Mash
© Jonathan Hatchman
In Canning Town, BJ’s is a proper East End pie and mash shop, frequented by hungry locals who swear by their jellied eels and crispy pies. The liquor here is thicker than most on this list. Strangely, BJ’s offer chips as well as mashed potato – perfect for dipping in the sauce or drowning in their hot chilli vinegar. This is an intimate spot, often forgotten among the East End’s great pie and mash dynasties. But for flavour, it's up there with the best of them. (Takeaway only.)
330 Barking Rd, Plaistow, London E13 8HL
Golden Pie
It might seem unusual to find a pie and mash shop in one London’s most affluent areas, but that doesn’t mean Golden Pie is anything less than authentic. The staff are known for their warmth, and the pies are cooked golden while retaining a stodgy, soft goodness. Golden Pie pride themselves on the fresh free-range beef and organic produce, and for a fish-out-of-water, remain one of the most popular takeaways in the area. (Takeaway and delivery.)
188 Lavender Hill, Battersea, London SW11 5TQ
Maureen’s Pie and Mash
Also known as “Maureen’s Cockney Food Bar”, this small Chrisp Street café in Poplar offers other local savoury delights, like salted beef beigels. Maureen’s pie and mash has been feeding locals for sixty-two years, with a homemade dark liquor sauce that has a distinct mint flavour. With a sizeable cockney community in the Docklands, Maureen’s feels less like a traditional pie and mash shop and more of a living, breathing reflection of the East End today. Their homemade chilli-vinegar might be one of the most mouth-numbing on this list. (Takeaway only.)
6 Market Square, Poplar, London E14 6AH
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