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Thursday, March 25, 2021

Review: How to gain 5 pounds in a week (hint: lots of pie) - OCRegister

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“Something smells good. Are you baking again?” my partner asks.

The kitchen has begun to smell like homemade peach and raspberry pie. 

“Yes,” I say, glancing at the kitchen counter, which is immaculately clean. I unwrapped a frozen pie and turned on the oven. That counts as “baking,” right? 

Moments later, the crust is beautifully golden, and the fruit filling is oozing around the edges. I stand in front of the oven, basking in the aroma as I wait for the timer to ding. 

  • Coconut cream pie from The Flaky Apple Pie Co. in Costa Mesa (Photo by Brad A. Johnson, Orange County Register/SCNG)

  • Classic apple pie from The Flaky Apple Pie Co. in Costa Mesa (Photo by Brad A. Johnson, Orange County Register/SCNG)

  • Coconut cream pie from The Flaky Apple Pie Co. in Costa Mesa (Photo by Brad A. Johnson, Orange County Register/SCNG)

  • Banana cream pie with coconut from The Flaky Apple Pie Co. in Costa Mesa (Photo by Brad A. Johnson, Orange County Register/SCNG)

  • Individual-size peach melba pie (peaches and raspeberries) from The Flaky Apple Pie Co. in Costa Mesa (Photo by Brad A. Johnson, Orange County Register/SCNG)

I think that’s the idea behind Flaky Apple Pie Company, a new ghost kitchen in Costa Mesa that sells nothing but pies. Well, and cookies. They don’t have a retail storefront, just a commercial commissary kitchen and a website for online orders. 

Several days in a row now, my whole house has smelled like homemade pie. First raspberry and peach. Apple. Triple berry. I even baked a chicken pot pie. 

The namesake apple pies are good, the crusts indeed flaky. Even though apple has never been my favorite type of pie, I could get used to this. Of the half dozen flavors I sampled, the peach melba is my favorite, a pastry-topped pie stuffed with a mix of tart raspberries and peaches. It’s just the right balance of sweet and sour. 

There were other days when I didn’t turn on the oven and still ate pie. The banana and coconut cream pies are the only ones I sampled that don’t need to be cooked. They’re also the only ones that aren’t frozen when you pick them up. 

Heads-up, though. Not everything turned out great. When I baked a few hand pies or turnovers — some stuffed with fruit, others with Nutella — it was if I really was baking from scratch because everything failed. I did everything according to the instructions, yet the fruit-filled turnovers leaked all their juices halfway into the bake, and when I pulled them out, their bottoms were permanently glued to the parchment paper in a puddle of burnt fruit juice. There was no way to salvage them. 

Meanwhile, the Nutella inside the others never melted. The pastry cooked beautifully, but the chocolaty insides were still fully solidified — and in my opinion Nutella should never mimic the texture of a block of cheddar cheese. I’m not sure what went wrong. But if I took credit for the success of those other pies, I guess I need to accept blame for the unmitigated disaster with the turnovers as well. 

The Flaky Apple Pie Co.

Where: 350 Clinton St., Costa Mesa

When: Pickups on Thursdays or Saturdays

Phone: 714-717-3961 

Online: flakyapplepieco.com

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March 26, 2021 at 01:01AM
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Review: How to gain 5 pounds in a week (hint: lots of pie) - OCRegister

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