I don’t know how it happened, but we’ve landed on the last weekend of August and another summer is slowly sliding out the door.
I can see that it’s packing up to hit the road, with the chilly mornings and a few, yet notable, yellow leaves falling to the ground. There was one tucked under my windshield wiper the other day and I swear a little tear almost fell from my eye.
Alas, these late summer days are not to be wasted and neither is the good stuff that comes with them — like glorious vegetables. The farmers markets have tables overflowing with everything awesome right now. Beets, carrots, rutabagas, parsnips, and potatoes have been pulled from the earth and are ready to be roasted or mashed. Fat heads of cabbages are waiting to be made into cabbage rolls. Cucumbers are calling out to be pickled. Squashes of all varieties are starting to roll in and you already have too much zucchini to know what to do with. Tomatoes actually taste like tomatoes and I’ve been eating my fill of toasted tomato sandwiches, nodding in gratitude to the garden gods after the last of the crumbs have been wiped from the plate.
And then there is the corn. Sweet, sweet corn. Nothing compares to the cobs freshly picked and grown locally. Here is what you’re looking for when choosing corn: the cobs should feel firm, and the silk should feel very soft and loose. Peel back some leaves and check that no bugs have taken up residence. I’m greedy for the good stuff, with fat, juicy kernels almost bursting from the cobs themselves. Hot and buttered, with a flourish of salt and pepper, this is the one food I miss with all my heart when the snow flies.
To celebrate the bounty of fresh vegetables, I whipped up a delicious pasta that’s teeming with jumbo shrimp and the best seasonal vegetables. The shape of the pasta can be anything you find in the cupboard. In my case it was a box of gemelli, but any medium or long pasta such as tagliatelle, pappardelle, or even spaghetti would be fine. Corn is shaved off cobs, and its sweetness marries well with the acidic zing of cherry tomatoes. I’m adding zucchini to everything these days, and its mild flavour balances out the pasta pot. My basil plants are the overachievers of the herb garden this summer, and before I turn the verdant leaves into a large batch of pesto, I chop up a good amount to add to the pasta. With a drizzle of good olive oil and a smattering of freshly grated Parmesan cheese, this is a fine way to appreciate the late summer days we’re living. I don’t know about you, but I’m holding on tight.
Late summer pasta with corn and shrimp (makes four servings)
2 ears of fresh sweet corn
1 lb. pasta such as gemelli, orecchiette or fusilli
1/4 cup salted butter, divided
1 lb. raw jumbo shrimp, peeled and deveined
1 small onion, diced
2 garlic cloves, minced
1/4 tsp. red pepper flakes
3/4 cup cherry tomatoes, halved
2 small zucchini, cut into 1/2-inch thick rounds
1/2 cup white wine
Zest and juice of one lemon
1/4 cup chopped fresh basil leaves
Salt and pepper
Extra virgin olive oil, for serving
Grated Parmesan cheese, for serving
1. Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. Cook the pasta according to package directions. Drain, reserving one cup of pasta water. Place the cooked pasta back in the pot.
2. Meanwhile, using a sharp chef’s knife, slice the kernels of corn off of the cobs. Set aside.
3. Melt two tablespoons of butter in a large non-stick skillet over medium-high heat. Add the shrimp and cook until pink and opaque, about two minutes per side. Remove from the heat and transfer the shrimp and their juices to a bowl.
4. Place the skillet back on medium-high heat and add the remaining butter. Stir in the onion and cook for a few minutes until it is softened, then stir in the garlic, red pepper flakes, tomatoes, and zucchini. Add generous pinches of salt and pepper. Cook until the tomatoes release their juices, about two to three minutes, then stir in the white wine, 3/4 cup pasta water, lemon zest and lemon juice. Scrape up any browned bits on the bottom of the skillet. Add the corn and cook until tender, another two minutes. Stir in the cooked shrimp with juices and the basil. Season to taste with salt and pepper.
5. Add the corn and shrimp mixture to the pot of hot pasta. Stir to thoroughly combine. If it needs more liquid, stir in the remaining pasta water. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Divide the pasta into bowls, drizzle with olive oil, and garnish with plenty of grated Parmesan cheese.
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