Novelist and storyteller Amy Wallen has always loved pie.
It all started with chicken pot pie. As a child, when her family returned to the United States on home leave between her father’s oil-industry postings to Nigeria, Peru and Bolivia, the first thing she wanted was a commercial frozen chicken pot pie. After her family returned and settled in Oklahoma, her favorite pie remained her ultimate comfort food, the solution to most of life’s challenges.
As an adult, she embraced her love of pie and started creating her own versions — beginning with chicken pot pie — just as she began to write seriously and embarked on a humorous novel. Initially, she found pie-making challenging and focused on the fillings, using store-bought dough. The South Park resident admits she rarely follows a recipe; she adapts formulas with what feels right or what’s on hand.
As she experimented with making her own crusts — she laughingly describes herself becoming “fanatical” about making the best crusts possible and matching the crust to the pie’s contents — she discovered that pie-baking stimulates her creativity and writing.
When her first marriage fell apart, she turned to pie for emotional support. Her fisherman ex left her freezer filled with 25 pounds of Alaskan salmon, which she gradually turned into pies, including her favorite salmon and portobello recipe featured on her website. Pie got her through her divorce, nourished her friendships and propelled sales of her first novel, the bestselling, funny romp, “Moon Pies and Movie Stars.”
Wallen was on her way as a writer, fueled by pie. That novel led to other publications, including essays, short stories, a memoir (“When We Were Ghouls”) and another novel and detective mystery currently under way. In addition, she has a long-term gig as associate director of the New York State Summer Writers Institute (until the pandemic intruded on this year’s session). She also teaches writing around San Diego and conducts manuscript workshops and literary salons, all — normally — accompanied by pie.
As she explored her passion for making pie, she discovered its meditative and healing qualities along with the sense of comfort and community sharing that freshly baked pie brings.
“When I need to mull over things, I’ll pit cherries, when I’m trying to resolve an issue or character I can start fresh. (Writing) a novel takes so long. Having that sense of completion is important,” Wallen said.
“The beauty of pie is, it’s so creative. You can always fix it and it comes together. It ended up being my thing. I started making pies as a creative endeavor when I was writing my novel. I could create it, cook it and then eat it. It was done, and it was satisfying,” she explained.
When Wallen received a disappointing initial rejection of her proposal for a whimsical illustrated book called “How to Write a Novel in 20 Pies,” she thought, what better way to refresh her spirit than pie?
November was approaching, the month when thousands of newbie and experienced writers hunker down with National Novel Writing Month to craft a 50,000-word novel in 30 days. Although Wallen wasn’t excited about NaNoWriMo, as it’s known, she had an idea: Why not craft her own novel challenge of “NaNoPieMo” — creating 30 different pies in 30 days, while writing at her own pace?
“I realized I could make a pie quickly,” she said. “It taught me persistence.”
She continued to write, amid the daily shared pies.
Wallen came up with a diverse array of pies, many from ideas suggested by friends or inspired by their favorite dishes. Her sweet creations included pies as varied as impossible coconut, persimmon, rhubarb and pomegranate, California limon, apple ginger, four-cherry with cinnamon swirl topping, and vegan super berry crafted with her stepson, rock star Adam Lambert. She also made her great-aunt’s traditional Sister’s Chocolate Pecan Pie, which she and her brother reimagined with an improved custard and crust.
Among the savory pies she created were a cacio and pepe made with spaghetti, three cheeses and pepper; shepherd’s pie; tomato and goat cheese in phyllo pastry; a (Thanksgiving) turkey leftover combination; and pollo asado in cornmeal crust. (See Wallen’s Instagram accounts for more NaNoPieMo creations.)
For Wallen, pie embodies the kindness and generosity of shared experiences and her overall approach to life.
“Pies are my creative outlet. It’s how I persevere. Creativity is hard. Pie is never going to be perfect, but it’s a creative endeavor,” Wallen explained.
“The less perfect it is, the better it tastes. And you get to eat it,” she added, with a broad grin.
Pie-baking resources
Recipe details: Fuller versions of Amy Wallen’s recipes are on her website. Sign up for her newsletter for more pie recipes; find more pies on Instagram @amylizwrites and @writingandpies.
Wallen’s favorite pie cookbooks: Kate McDermott, “Art of the Pie: A Practical Guide to Homemade Crusts, Fillings and Life”; Ken Haedrich, “Pie: 300 Tried-and-True Recipes for Delicious Homemade Pie”; see also Haedrich’s collection of savory pies, “Dinner Pies.”
Ingredient notes: Leaf lard, prized in baking for creating tender, delicious crusts, is the highest grade of lard, coming from the soft fat around the pig’s loin and kidneys. See Kate McDermott’s explanation of its benefits and availability. Alternatively, use vegetable shortening.
Pro tip: Use unsalted butter for best results.
The Best Cherry Pie is made with a whole wheat crust and a brown sugar topping — and a whopping 3 pounds of cherries. “I like a big cherry pie,” Wallen acknowledges.
(Eduardo Contreras / The San Diego Union-Tribune)
The Best Cherry Pie
During cherry season, I sometimes make a four-cherry pie with sweet cherries, dried sour cherries, Rainier cherries and Trader Joe’s jarred Morello cherries. I’ve never, ever used the canned cherries in the red sticky syrup. The BEST cherry pie I’ve ever made was with just fresh cherries — 2 pounds of sweet cherries and 1 pound of Rainier cherries, which are sweeter than the “sweet” ones. Yes, I said pounds, not cups or ounces. I like a big cherry pie. Off-season, substitute two jars Trader Joe’s Morello cherries for the fresh. I used a heartier whole wheat crust for this pie.
1 single-crust pie dough of your choice, homemade or commercial
2 pounds sweet dark cherries, pitted
1 pound Rainier cherries, pitted
1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice
½ cup plus 2 tablespoons sugar
3 tablespoons cornstarch
½ cup brown sugar
¼ cup (half stick) unsalted butter
Preheat oven to 375 degrees. Prepare a single-crust pie dough. Let it rest while assembling the filling. Place the pitted cherries in a medium bowl and add lemon juice and ½ cup sugar, mixing well. Let sit about 15 minutes to release juice. In a small bowl, mix remaining 2 tablespoons sugar and cornstarch. Set aside. For topping place brown sugar and butter in a food processor and pulse until it’s a grainy texture. Put in small bowl and refrigerate until used. Add cornstarch and sugar mixture to cherries until smooth. Roll out dough and insert in 8-inch pie pan. Add cherry filling. Bake at 375 degrees for 30 minutes. Sprinkle brown sugar topping on and raise temperature to 400 degrees and bake for about 20-30 minutes until bubbling, oozing and smelling oh so good. Let rest for 20 minutes or until you just can’t stand it any longer.
A dusting of from-scratch vanilla sugar on a whole wheat lattice crust takes the Vanilla Bean Peach Pie over the top.
(Eduardo Contreras / The San Diego Union-Tribune)
Vanilla Bean Peach Pie in a Whole Wheat Crust
I prefer freestone peaches because they are easier to pit. I also like to leave the skin on, but some people skin them first.
FOR THE WHOLE WHEAT PASTRY:
2 ½ cups white flour
½ cup whole wheat flour
1 teaspoon salt
½ cup (1 stick) butter
8 tablespoons leaf lard (see note under Pie-baking resources) or shortening
½ cup ice water
FOR THE FILLING:
8-10 peaches
1 plump vanilla bean
½ cup sugar (baker’s or superfine recommended)
3 tablespoons cornstarch
2 teaspoons lemon juice
2 tablespoons cold butter
For pastry, mix flours and salt in a big bowl. Add butter and lard and mix by hand until developing pecan-sized pieces. Add ice water and mix by hand until dough begins to form a ball. Don’t overwork. When holding together well, separate into two fat hockey pucks and place in fridge to rest at least an hour. Slice peaches and place in a large bowl. Make vanilla sugar by slitting the vanilla bean lengthwise and scraping the tiny seeds into the food processor bowl. Add sugar and pulse to blend. In a small bowl stir half the vanilla sugar with cornstarch and then mix with peaches. Mix in lemon juice; set aside.
Preheat oven to 400 degrees. Roll out bottom pastry and place in 9-inch, deep-dish pie pan. Pour peach mixture into the dish, smoothing the filling. Dot with 2 tablespoons cold butter.
Roll out top pastry and place over peaches. Crimp the edges. Make steam vents to prevent leakage while baking. Bake at 400 degrees for 30 minutes. Rotate pie front to back in oven. Bake another 30 minutes at 375 degrees. Remove from oven and sprinkle top with ¼ of the vanilla sugar mixture. Sprinkle the remaining ¼ to make it a little sweeter if you prefer or add it to your coffee.
Pollo Asado Pie in a Cornmeal Crust includes grilled chicken, green onions, peppers and corn.
(Eduardo Contreras / The San Diego Union-Tribune)
Pollo Asado Pie in a Cornmeal Crust
This is the easy version of the Screaming Carne Asada Pie (see recipe on Wallen’s website), with a few shortcuts on this pie, using Trader Joe’s products. It’s just as delicious but quicker.
FOR THE CORNMEAL CRUST:
2 ¼ cups all purpose flour
½ cup stone-ground yellow cornmeal
1 teaspoon salt
4 tablespoons butter
8 tablespoons leaf lard or shortening
½ cup buttermilk
1 egg yolk, beaten (for coating)
FOR THE FILLING:
1 package Trader Joe’s Pollo Asado
1 bunch green onions
6-8 small sweet multicolor peppers
4 ears corn on the cob
1 can black beans, drained
2 jars Trader Joe’s chipotle salsa
1 can Trader Joe’s fire-roasted diced tomatoes
Stir together flour, cornmeal and salt. Cut in the butter and lard or shortening until the mixture resembles coarse meal. Add buttermilk to the flour mixture, stirring with a fork or your hands just until the pastry is moist enough to hold together. Make two fat hockey pucks. Wrap the pastry and chill for 30 minutes or until ready to use.
Black beans, tomatoes and salsa are added to the filling for Pollo Asado Pie.
(Eduardo Contreras / The San Diego Union-Tribune)
Grill chicken, green onions, peppers and corn on outdoor grill until done. Chicken takes about 4 minutes on each side. Veggies take longer — start with corn for about 20 minutes, peppers about 10 minutes and green onions about 2 minutes. Once everything is cooked, remove and toss the pepper tops. Cut corn from the cob. Slice, dice and shred chicken and onions. Add all to a large bowl. Add beans, salsa and tomatoes, stirring well. Add any other ingredients of your choice.
Preheat oven to 400 degrees. Roll out bottom dough and place in 10-inch deep dish pan. Add chicken filling. Roll out top crust. Lay on top, crimp edges, slice steam holes and baste with an egg yolk. Bake at 400 degrees for 30 minutes. Rotate pie front to back in oven. Reduce temperature to 375 degrees and bake another 30 minutes. Let rest for 10 minutes before serving.
Adapted from Amy Wallen’s recipes.
Sours Larson is a San Diego freelance writer.
The Link LonkAugust 12, 2020 at 08:02PM
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